You should have used a Vibrator! If your wall has air pockets in it, I’de
make the contractor pay for it. If you are interested in these kinds of
pumps, you can check out my website, Concrete Pumping People. Which is
available by clicking my name and clicking the link in my profile. Best of
Luck, Brandon Perkins ConcretePumpingPeople
Thanks! I’m glad people fine them useful. Six car! Nice. Even after having
built a 3 plus storage underneath, I’m finding uses for 4 car. :) Doing it
over, I might have a 2 car attached, and a two car workshop. :)
Good stuff……would love to do this here in Florida, but negative on the
foundations, actually we call them swimming pools….. Just built a shop
here and had to raise the elevation of the land to avouid flooding…..so
go figure
No,not I internet tough guy,its just that your not infront of me otherwise
I would tell you you”re a ASS….just so you know,the hammer being used to
get the air pockets out is not a special hammer,that’s why you’re a ASS. Ya
fucking moron
Not really. Concrete “cures”, it doesn’t “dry” so water doesn’t really
effect it. If you’re doing a floor however, it would make it really
difficult to finish it cause of all the water.
Talk to me. “thermal mass wall” For everyone else’s sake that hasn’t built
their garage. What are you considering a thermal mass wall, and explain why
you shouldn’t insulate the inside?
For your new Home: I’d recommend – Dry Stacked Concrete Block (8″ X 8″ X
16″), use surface bonding cement (no mortar required); w/ 6″ to 8′ of rigid
insulation (exterior only); to provide for high thermal mass walls. Simple
construction, Less Cost to build, go Passive Solar. see: thenaturalhome.c o
m earthsongfarm.c o m drystacked.c o m
Concrete walls have high mass (cf timber planks & fibro sheeting) & high
thermal inertia – slow to heat, slow to cool. This means they are warm in
winter, cool in summer. This provides benefits to the interior you want to
maximise; hence, you don’t insulate against this benefit. Concrete slabs
can provide the same benefits if you polish or tile with a no-rubber
adhesive (rubber insulates) instead of laying carpet / floating timber
floors which insulate (as do their underlays).
Those guys did do a good job. You mentioned that you had a hard time
parting with the money, but that is actually a good sign of a lot of work
being done in a short amount of time. I am glad to hear that you had a good
experience when you hired a contractor.
Also when doing floors you have to water it during the summer for it to not
cure to fast. I’m no expert but my father did that when they made the
garage floor foundation.. Garage was massive 10x14meters
Brandon Perkins it is impossible to get all on the air out of the concrete
nor can you tell, you cannot tell by the finish because the contractor
could have used brand new plywood’s. you do not always have to use a
vibrator. A vibator is usually used when there is a lot of rebel(uprights,
and horizontal) and I if it is tough area for concrete to seep in the
areas. The guy was most likely pattling the concrete for a better finish on
top also.
If it took them only 6 days maybe you could’ve done it yourself in your
spare time. It looks pretty easy if you get your self one of those special
hammers.
It’s painful to part with the money. But, think of how much you saved not
having to buy the forms. I mean, you would have only used them once – till
you build your next garage. But then, you’d have to buy 3 more cars. So,
technically, you’re ahead. Congrats…
All the discussion about air pockets & Hammers wow! Obviously the skilled
tradesmen knew what they were doing:^) When the hammer strikes the metal
rods , the metal rods “Vibrate”. And since the the rods are every 16 inches
on center. Then the whole wall is “Vibrated” as you pour it. As long as you
strike the rods! Class dismissed :^)
Yes, Luke, you can definitely do this by hand. It will take more time but
will be more rewarding. You can buy the ties and use 3/4″ plywood to build
the forms yourself and the reuse them as you go. I’m going to be doing the
same thing but I’ll probably rent an excavator and dig it myself rather
than shovel. Just make sure you know how deep to go down for your frost
line and your footer is twice as wide as the wall. Also I have no idea why
but in the video, there is no vertical rebar which is a mistake. Concret is
strong in compression, but little #4 rebar is cheap compared to a wall
collapsing. If you are building the wall yourself definitely have vertical
and horizontal rebar.
You should have used a Vibrator! If your wall has air pockets in it, I’de
make the contractor pay for it. If you are interested in these kinds of
pumps, you can check out my website, Concrete Pumping People. Which is
available by clicking my name and clicking the link in my profile. Best of
Luck, Brandon Perkins ConcretePumpingPeople
@TheBrandonPerkins Thanks! The foundation was solid, not a single even tiny
pocket. These guys were pretty good.
Awesome set of videos! I am looking to build a six car garage and work shop
by myself and these videos really help. Thank you!!!!
Thanks! I’m glad people fine them useful. Six car! Nice. Even after having
built a 3 plus storage underneath, I’m finding uses for 4 car. :) Doing it
over, I might have a 2 car attached, and a two car workshop. :)
Thankfully, the pad that I will be building it on is flat….unlike yours.
To build what you did on uneven ground takes guts. congratulations!
Good stuff……would love to do this here in Florida, but negative on the
foundations, actually we call them swimming pools….. Just built a shop
here and had to raise the elevation of the land to avouid flooding…..so
go figure
HA, my dad just built a house in Florida and did the same thing! :) Thanks
for watching.
your an ass…………………
Really guy, an ass huh? Well ok , what we have here is a keyboard tough guy
,so congrats you are a small minded mommy’s boy.
No,not I internet tough guy,its just that your not infront of me otherwise
I would tell you you”re a ASS….just so you know,the hammer being used to
get the air pockets out is not a special hammer,that’s why you’re a ASS. Ya
fucking moron
well now i finally know what an airhammer is
looks like it was raining/snowing at the time of the pour. wouldn’t that
ruin the wet cement?
Not really. Concrete “cures”, it doesn’t “dry” so water doesn’t really
effect it. If you’re doing a floor however, it would make it really
difficult to finish it cause of all the water.
You NEVER insulate the inside of a thermal mass wall.
Talk to me. “thermal mass wall” For everyone else’s sake that hasn’t built
their garage. What are you considering a thermal mass wall, and explain why
you shouldn’t insulate the inside?
For your new Home: I’d recommend – Dry Stacked Concrete Block (8″ X 8″ X
16″), use surface bonding cement (no mortar required); w/ 6″ to 8′ of rigid
insulation (exterior only); to provide for high thermal mass walls. Simple
construction, Less Cost to build, go Passive Solar. see: thenaturalhome.c o
m earthsongfarm.c o m drystacked.c o m
Interesting vid what did it cost for pour concrete? What was estimate
amount of concrete was used. I am think of getting it one done. Ty
Concrete walls have high mass (cf timber planks & fibro sheeting) & high
thermal inertia – slow to heat, slow to cool. This means they are warm in
winter, cool in summer. This provides benefits to the interior you want to
maximise; hence, you don’t insulate against this benefit. Concrete slabs
can provide the same benefits if you polish or tile with a no-rubber
adhesive (rubber insulates) instead of laying carpet / floating timber
floors which insulate (as do their underlays).
Those guys did do a good job. You mentioned that you had a hard time
parting with the money, but that is actually a good sign of a lot of work
being done in a short amount of time. I am glad to hear that you had a good
experience when you hired a contractor.
A good perspective Ruben
Why did they not use a vibrator to settle the concrete and eject the air
bubbles? Curious because of the depth of the wall.
Also when doing floors you have to water it during the summer for it to not
cure to fast. I’m no expert but my father did that when they made the
garage floor foundation.. Garage was massive 10x14meters
Brandon Perkins it is impossible to get all on the air out of the concrete
nor can you tell, you cannot tell by the finish because the contractor
could have used brand new plywood’s. you do not always have to use a
vibrator. A vibator is usually used when there is a lot of rebel(uprights,
and horizontal) and I if it is tough area for concrete to seep in the
areas. The guy was most likely pattling the concrete for a better finish on
top also.
special hammer ??
If it took them only 6 days maybe you could’ve done it yourself in your
spare time. It looks pretty easy if you get your self one of those special
hammers.
It’s painful to part with the money. But, think of how much you saved not
having to buy the forms. I mean, you would have only used them once – till
you build your next garage. But then, you’d have to buy 3 more cars. So,
technically, you’re ahead. Congrats…
Really? These guys have never heard of a vibratory pencil tool? It beats
the heck out of beating the forms with a hammer.
6 days?!!! Theres no reason that little foundy should take more than a day
and a half.
holy crap, in my area. you would be fired if that wasnt done by around 1
o’clock, same day.
Always vibrate ! It’s more expensive but well worth it.
All the discussion about air pockets & Hammers wow! Obviously the skilled
tradesmen knew what they were doing:^) When the hammer strikes the metal
rods , the metal rods “Vibrate”. And since the the rods are every 16 inches
on center. Then the whole wall is “Vibrated” as you pour it. As long as you
strike the rods! Class dismissed :^)
Would it be possible to do this by hand if you were to do it in stages
Yes, Luke, you can definitely do this by hand. It will take more time but
will be more rewarding. You can buy the ties and use 3/4″ plywood to build
the forms yourself and the reuse them as you go. I’m going to be doing the
same thing but I’ll probably rent an excavator and dig it myself rather
than shovel. Just make sure you know how deep to go down for your frost
line and your footer is twice as wide as the wall. Also I have no idea why
but in the video, there is no vertical rebar which is a mistake. Concret is
strong in compression, but little #4 rebar is cheap compared to a wall
collapsing. If you are building the wall yourself definitely have vertical
and horizontal rebar.