Is nice to get away from the boiler for a while. Looking forward to the
Summer when the vehicle portion can be explored. Though I feel you’ll find
plenty to tinker with before then?
Thank you for this! I am a novice home improvement person and I am
renovating a garage to be a cottage for my daughters and I…using salvaged
and donated materials. I got this unfaced insulation donated and had no
idea how to handle it. You speak so clearly and plainly about the subject I
am totally convinced you are right. But then again, there is clearly no
right or wrong on this subject. Never thought home building/remodeling
would have so many controversial subjects (soffit venting has also been a
point of contention for many of my volunteers) Anyhow, you can check out
my project at http://www.theittybittyhouse.com
I don’t disagree with anything said in this video regarding vapour
barriers. I think it is all basically common sense. But the installation of
an actual vapour barrier is institutionalized in the building codes of
virtually every jurisdiction in North America. Just how is one supposed to
get around that?!
One side needs a solid barrier from moisture. That side is the side with
the insulation and air cap that is insulating your dwelling. Otherwise you
will draw in moisture from outside of your dwelling, It does not matter if
it is hotter or colder outside. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
You have a metal roof. Have you ever seen moisture bead up and produce
frost on the underside of metal roofs? You say just let it go through the
ceiling. Wow, what a concept. If you heat that garage and produce any
moisture, it will rise up into the attic, especially after the wood has
seasoned, if you are building a new structure. I am a little confused as
you seem to advocate a paint vapor retarder. So do I. I am in the
Northeast and after thousands of roof removals and wall openings, I have
never found that the pressures of the Summer (from the outside) rival that
of the Winter (from the inside). Key point is to test your slab with the
“doormat test” which is a doormat or plastic laid out on the slab for a day
or two. If you have moisture on the backside of it, your slab is bringing
up moisture into the building because it does not have a vapor barrier.
Take hygrometer readings. If it is a garage, maybe no worries.
You need a complete moisture impervious barrier protecting your non-living
space (typically attic, not necessarily basement). Without a vapor
barrier, warm moist air rises into your attic, condenses and causes
moisture at first and then MOLD. I did an experiment. I sealed a plastic
bag with duct tape over an unused hvac ceiling return vent. Then one
winter day my plaster ceiling was all wet. I found the bag 1/4 full of
water and leaking! I pulled the bag, the vent, installed plywood, a
vapor barrier, 13″ of unfaced insulation, then I boarded and plastered
inside on the ceiling. Experiment over. With no vapor barrier, moisture
builds up in your attic and causes big problems. Just my .02 cents.
In your case, if this is a garage with no liveable space above, then I can
agree with your approach. However, I only agree in that case. In almost
every other case, even in the Northeast (where I live), it is absolutely
necessary to install an air/vapor barrier in the attic/ceiling. At the same
time, you’re structure will need proper ventilation in the attic in order
to ensure the entire building system works properly.
without the vapor barrier on the ceiling , every crack you have in you
insulation will let the heat get to your steel roofing & cause sweating
(condensation, warm on one side , cold on the other), there will be time
you’ll think it’s raining inside.
Thanks very much. We have some contractors doing some work here in our
home in florida and I didn’t see them install any vapor barriers so I was
wondering if it was a good idea or not.
Makes sense to me!!!!
Is nice to get away from the boiler for a while. Looking forward to the
Summer when the vehicle portion can be explored. Though I feel you’ll find
plenty to tinker with before then?
Retarded
Thank you for this! I am a novice home improvement person and I am
renovating a garage to be a cottage for my daughters and I…using salvaged
and donated materials. I got this unfaced insulation donated and had no
idea how to handle it. You speak so clearly and plainly about the subject I
am totally convinced you are right. But then again, there is clearly no
right or wrong on this subject. Never thought home building/remodeling
would have so many controversial subjects (soffit venting has also been a
point of contention for many of my volunteers) Anyhow, you can check out
my project at http://www.theittybittyhouse.com
I don’t disagree with anything said in this video regarding vapour
barriers. I think it is all basically common sense. But the installation of
an actual vapour barrier is institutionalized in the building codes of
virtually every jurisdiction in North America. Just how is one supposed to
get around that?!
One side needs a solid barrier from moisture. That side is the side with
the insulation and air cap that is insulating your dwelling. Otherwise you
will draw in moisture from outside of your dwelling, It does not matter if
it is hotter or colder outside. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
You have a metal roof. Have you ever seen moisture bead up and produce
frost on the underside of metal roofs? You say just let it go through the
ceiling. Wow, what a concept. If you heat that garage and produce any
moisture, it will rise up into the attic, especially after the wood has
seasoned, if you are building a new structure. I am a little confused as
you seem to advocate a paint vapor retarder. So do I. I am in the
Northeast and after thousands of roof removals and wall openings, I have
never found that the pressures of the Summer (from the outside) rival that
of the Winter (from the inside). Key point is to test your slab with the
“doormat test” which is a doormat or plastic laid out on the slab for a day
or two. If you have moisture on the backside of it, your slab is bringing
up moisture into the building because it does not have a vapor barrier.
Take hygrometer readings. If it is a garage, maybe no worries.
You need a complete moisture impervious barrier protecting your non-living
space (typically attic, not necessarily basement). Without a vapor
barrier, warm moist air rises into your attic, condenses and causes
moisture at first and then MOLD. I did an experiment. I sealed a plastic
bag with duct tape over an unused hvac ceiling return vent. Then one
winter day my plaster ceiling was all wet. I found the bag 1/4 full of
water and leaking! I pulled the bag, the vent, installed plywood, a
vapor barrier, 13″ of unfaced insulation, then I boarded and plastered
inside on the ceiling. Experiment over. With no vapor barrier, moisture
builds up in your attic and causes big problems. Just my .02 cents.
In your case, if this is a garage with no liveable space above, then I can
agree with your approach. However, I only agree in that case. In almost
every other case, even in the Northeast (where I live), it is absolutely
necessary to install an air/vapor barrier in the attic/ceiling. At the same
time, you’re structure will need proper ventilation in the attic in order
to ensure the entire building system works properly.
without the vapor barrier on the ceiling , every crack you have in you
insulation will let the heat get to your steel roofing & cause sweating
(condensation, warm on one side , cold on the other), there will be time
you’ll think it’s raining inside.
Thanks very much. We have some contractors doing some work here in our
home in florida and I didn’t see them install any vapor barriers so I was
wondering if it was a good idea or not.