I noticed through out the course of building and as the camera would pan,
that the wall shear (plywood on the walls) overlapped from floor to floor.
I do the same as well, I order 9 foot tall wall shear for 8 foot tall
walls; however, for an engineering stand point, you should always have your
wall shear that breaks from floor to floor, to break over the rim that
separates the two floors or either the top or bottom plates of the frame,
never have them break in the field below the top plates.
Still a very valiant effort to take on a building project of that size,
along with a career, and raising children. I have always admired
intellectuals that don’t mind getting there feet dirty. Very few people in
life have ever challenged both sides of the collar spectrum, both blue and
white. As far as I’m concerned, no one has the right to down play what you
are doing, so with that being said, any advice given is from a framer that
is equally as excited in what you have accomplished thus far.
This IS great information. Truthfully, I had no idea what i was doing as
far as sheathing went. It’s one of the regrets of the build, 1. using OSB,
and two, not making a unified shear wall. But yes, please, any and all
advice is much appreciated.
It’s an easy fix. Just block in between the stud bays where plywood seems
are. Similar method that you did for the floor joist blocking, only for the
wall instead.
Iv said it before you cant span 20 feet with lumber……..and I’m talkin
joists! beams are another story, you can span 19 feet with a 5 ply 2×12 not
supporting more than one floor, but after that you need to move up to
glue-lam and lvl and psl wich require an engineers touch, you are REALLY
pushing the limits and gone past the spans of what a carpenter can design,
and as a carpenter, I would say you can expect quite a bit of shifting in
this one, finish the building with light weight materials because it is
significantly under engineered
I noticed through out the course of building and as the camera would pan,
that the wall shear (plywood on the walls) overlapped from floor to floor.
I do the same as well, I order 9 foot tall wall shear for 8 foot tall
walls; however, for an engineering stand point, you should always have your
wall shear that breaks from floor to floor, to break over the rim that
separates the two floors or either the top or bottom plates of the frame,
never have them break in the field below the top plates.
Still a very valiant effort to take on a building project of that size,
along with a career, and raising children. I have always admired
intellectuals that don’t mind getting there feet dirty. Very few people in
life have ever challenged both sides of the collar spectrum, both blue and
white. As far as I’m concerned, no one has the right to down play what you
are doing, so with that being said, any advice given is from a framer that
is equally as excited in what you have accomplished thus far.
Your screw method to hold the plywood in position is something that I do
with nails as well. We call them “helper nails”. Good method.
This IS great information. Truthfully, I had no idea what i was doing as
far as sheathing went. It’s one of the regrets of the build, 1. using OSB,
and two, not making a unified shear wall. But yes, please, any and all
advice is much appreciated.
It’s an easy fix. Just block in between the stud bays where plywood seems
are. Similar method that you did for the floor joist blocking, only for the
wall instead.
Iv said it before you cant span 20 feet with lumber……..and I’m talkin
joists! beams are another story, you can span 19 feet with a 5 ply 2×12 not
supporting more than one floor, but after that you need to move up to
glue-lam and lvl and psl wich require an engineers touch, you are REALLY
pushing the limits and gone past the spans of what a carpenter can design,
and as a carpenter, I would say you can expect quite a bit of shifting in
this one, finish the building with light weight materials because it is
significantly under engineered