every length of lumber has a bow in it…look down the length of the lumber
and you’ll be able to see which side is bowed….I always make sure to put
the bow side UP, that way you’ll help ensure that whatever’s above those
joists won’t sag in the future.
Yes that’s right. Yeah, I did for some of them, but I ended up finding so
few that had any crown at all, that I eventually just stopped. But yeah,
crown up. Good reminder! Thanks
Ah, yes, also good advice. Man these are the little things I think that
make the difference between someone who does this professionally, or at
least somewhat frequently, and someone like me that doesn’t. Thanks again!
They’re just goofy little tricks of the trade, so to speak…sometimes they
become more of a habit than actually having much of an impact on the job
itself. Anyway…great video series, and again, great job on the garage
build.
lol i wish my joist where this easy :) Try 18′ 2x12s recessed in to 15″
steel I-beam, running to metal welded bracket on round corrugated steel
grain bin wall. I have 2 in the middle done my self, only 80 more to
go..but they’ll get shorter?. lol nice video. I thought I’d spend some time
on intra-web seeing how you pros do it.
HAHA, yeah i had 20 2x12x20’s to install, they certainly are a job. I don’t
envy you having to install 80 of them. But they do get lighter as you go
along, or heavier depending how fast you work. :) Good luck!
If I want to built a second floor what measure I have to use? Is 2×8 good
enough in each floor? The first floor wall are made on block, ceiling isn’t
done yet but I’m thinking to use 2×10
typically you level the corners of you walls with a plate level and string
line and brace your walls before you do the floor, and using a 4 foot level
on a stud is not accurate because of the crown in the lumber
and the wall plates should end over a stud especially if its supporting a
joist, and you need a minimum 3/8 gap in wall sheathing for ventilation and
shrinkage and compression.
and you should never mix dimensional lumber with engineered wood product,
2X10 material will shrink considerably, especially douglas fir wich is
surfaced green and milled 1/2″ larger perpindicular to the grain than kiln
dried stock for anticipated shrinkage, so the tops of those joists should
be above the beam not flush, if your using douglas fir wich you should be
with those spans because those spans are not achievable with other species
and you should be using engineered wood joists for those 20′ spans, no
natural lumber 2x material can handle those spans without considerable
deflection
I’ve always wondered if you’d crowned your joists?
Man sure would be nice to know the lingo, what is crowning joists ?
every length of lumber has a bow in it…look down the length of the lumber
and you’ll be able to see which side is bowed….I always make sure to put
the bow side UP, that way you’ll help ensure that whatever’s above those
joists won’t sag in the future.
Also…when framing out walls for drywall, having all your bows on one side
will keep your drywall from looking wavy.
Yes that’s right. Yeah, I did for some of them, but I ended up finding so
few that had any crown at all, that I eventually just stopped. But yeah,
crown up. Good reminder! Thanks
Ah, yes, also good advice. Man these are the little things I think that
make the difference between someone who does this professionally, or at
least somewhat frequently, and someone like me that doesn’t. Thanks again!
They’re just goofy little tricks of the trade, so to speak…sometimes they
become more of a habit than actually having much of an impact on the job
itself. Anyway…great video series, and again, great job on the garage
build.
Cool video! Great music choice too! ;)
Very amusing… oh, and informative. Thanks!
Aye that would work too.
Thanks!
Thanks ,i think :)
2 x 4 strong enough..good job..
Totally hooked on this.
Excellent. Glad to hear it. ;)
lol i wish my joist where this easy :) Try 18′ 2x12s recessed in to 15″
steel I-beam, running to metal welded bracket on round corrugated steel
grain bin wall. I have 2 in the middle done my self, only 80 more to
go..but they’ll get shorter?. lol nice video. I thought I’d spend some time
on intra-web seeing how you pros do it.
HAHA, yeah i had 20 2x12x20’s to install, they certainly are a job. I don’t
envy you having to install 80 of them. But they do get lighter as you go
along, or heavier depending how fast you work. :) Good luck!
If I want to built a second floor what measure I have to use? Is 2×8 good
enough in each floor? The first floor wall are made on block, ceiling isn’t
done yet but I’m thinking to use 2×10
About my question below…wish measure I need if a want a third floor?
typically you level the corners of you walls with a plate level and string
line and brace your walls before you do the floor, and using a 4 foot level
on a stud is not accurate because of the crown in the lumber
and the wall plates should end over a stud especially if its supporting a
joist, and you need a minimum 3/8 gap in wall sheathing for ventilation and
shrinkage and compression.
and you should never mix dimensional lumber with engineered wood product,
2X10 material will shrink considerably, especially douglas fir wich is
surfaced green and milled 1/2″ larger perpindicular to the grain than kiln
dried stock for anticipated shrinkage, so the tops of those joists should
be above the beam not flush, if your using douglas fir wich you should be
with those spans because those spans are not achievable with other species
and you should be using engineered wood joists for those 20′ spans, no
natural lumber 2x material can handle those spans without considerable
deflection
great video